LEO MICIELI

Km 410-3650 - 'Stop, look, listen'. (Part 2/2)

Mascardi Lake, Nahuel Huapi National Park. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Km 2110-3650. El Foyel-Viedma. June 7th 2017.

Following the guideline that was given to us in the final stage of this trip, what we do now is precisely to stop, look and listen, with higher conscious of it. We've been doing it silently, no need of words, we just let ourselves go by what the moments and feelings tell us. We deliberately skip some places and towns with no regrets, leave others because it's time to do it and in others we stay more than we imagine. There's almost nothing that we know beforehand, in the contrary, the uncertainty guide us with our eyes closed to expectations, but for that very reason, trustful. Pleasant surprises begin to happen, and these surprises open the doors to others which we didn't even consider.

All of this is telling us something. Perhaps, in its wider form, life is about this kind of things, about stop controlling everything and make life like a trip on foot every day, in any circumstance around us and any feeling we have to pass through.

See Part 1 here

At noon we're leaving the camping. First we stop in Villa Mascardi whose homonymous lake is placed just a few meters by the side of Route 40. It's a sunny day though the cold wind shakes the water on the lake and our own legs as well. We spend just a few minutes here, enough for looking the landscape, taking a short walk by the shore and shooting some pictures. Our guideline: stop, look, listen, and get in the car as soon as posible in order to get warm and continue the road.

Now we're going to San Carlos de Bariloche.

Nahuel Huapi Lake, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

San Carlos de Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

The arrival to this city is very slow. Traffic increases while we're entering and we begin to notice that more than traffic it's a colapse of people and vehicles. Logically, the population is about 110.000 (some people say that is 140.000) and because of the tourism there's a lot of people temporarily staying in the city, which is geographically limited by mountains and lakes. In addition, we arrive when some key areas of the city are under construction, so it becomes difficult to go from one place to other whether in our Volky or by foot.

Nevermind, after all these kilometers of roads and different geographies any trouble becomes small in this situation or any other. It's a real pleasure to be here, and besides we're visiting a friend, Patricia, who is inviting us to her large and lovely house for four days. Of course we accept it, and the fact that we're going to stay more days in Bariloche opens the doors to new possibilities for visiting other destinations, which we didn't even considered before. Uncertainty keeps surprising us with its best. After passing that afternoon and night in the city, next day we do the so called 'Short Circuit' a well-known and traditional tour.

Moreno Lake, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Short Circuit, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

López Bay, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

López Bay, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Even inside the circuit we skip some places. In any case we just drive around with our Volky, sometimes we stop only for take some pics or just look, and listen. Fortunately we find a place with a small shore over López Bay, perfect for hanging out on the lake, drinking some 'mates' and enjoying of the water between arrayanes and the forest. Two hours in which quietness is even bigger than what we already had. About 8 pm we go back, feeling full of this mental vacuum that is close to happiness. Or that it is indeed.

Minero River. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Based yet in Bariloche, we start to draft the idea of going to Traful Lake, a place we had discarded due to lack of time and because we had to take a road in the opposite way. But life is a mystery and things may happen in many ways, though it's interesting that they happen always better than you planned.

Villa Traful is in the Province of Neuquén, at 100 km from where we are, but we're going to do the tour by the South of the lake, and driving by the national routes 40, 231 and 237, and the provincial one, the 65. It's a tour that passes through part of the Seven Lakes Circuit. The whole circuit is 240 km.

Traful Lake. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Traful Lake. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Traful Lake. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Traful Lake. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Without any doubts, we agree with Marisol that Traful Lake is the highest point in this trip so far, and that it will be very difficult to be in better place and situation. Circumstances have made it so, the day is nice and sunny, no wind at all, water looks like a mirror and it's perfect for getting in, we're drinking mate by the shore, and the quietness and natural beauty of this place has no comparison with any other. There were many high points during the trip, and there are others waiting for visiting, but the zenith is here.

We are so happy to be there that on our way back we pass by places like Villa La Angostura, Espejo Lake and others without even stopping or looking. Just a few stops and that was it. No regrets, though. Traveling is to have the freedom and the joy of visiting whatever and wherever you want.

Correntoso Lake. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

We're going back like our Volky was a glider. No hurries, there are some places left to see tomorrow. Before arriving to Bariloche we meet some friends, Romina and Walter, and after having some mate we plan a barbecue for tomorrow night. Friends are the landscape that always walk next to you.

National Route 231. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

View of Catedral Mount. Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Neuquén. 2017 © Leo Micieli

There's one day left in the city. We're having an 'asado' at night, but we have to see where to go in the day. By Romina and Walter's recommendation we decide to go to Los Alerces Waterfall, which is also in the course of Manso River that we visited before, a river that begins in Tronador Mount and ends in the Pacific Ocean. There we go then.

Manso River, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

The access to the waterfalls is by Route 40 and then by the provincial ones 81 and 82. It's near from where we are, just 60 km. Like most of the places along the trip, it's dirt road in good conditions in some parts and others very uneven and stony. Volky has already proven its worth though, so there's no 4x4 vehicle which intimidate us. Maybe slower but determined, a courage test.

We meet again with Manso River, which in this section of its course is really gentle (manso: gentle, meek). It's gentle but there's a fall ahead, so its name will be altered by a strong and beautiful waterfall just a few meters from where we parked.

Manso River, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Los Alerces Waterfall, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Manso River, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

The tour is short through a narrow path of 200 meters at most, which skirts the river and in where there's a viewpoint to the waterfalls. The sound of the water falling from several meters is loud, and the respect for the power of water produces an hypnotic effect on us. It's like the fire, we could stay for hours looking at the flames. By far it's a better option than watching TV, which hypnotizes as well, but with very different purposes.

When we're going back we must wait on the bridge that crosses the river, in where there's an Army's emplacement which controlls the pass. The access to the waterfall is by the same road than the Tronador Mount's, and the traffic by this narrow road could be a problem, so there are in and out times for each place. We wait then, by the Manso river once again. Of course, there are mates, we get in water and the afternoon is gentle just like the river in front of us.

National Route 40, Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Bariloche. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

The afternoon is gentle until we get in the city...

Today is the last day here. Since we left Viedma it persists the question about which road to take when we go back. There are two possibilities: to go to Neuquén and take the Route 22, asphalted and in very good conditions but with a lot of traffic, or take the Route 23, the South Line along which the Patagonian Train passes, with 200 km of dirt road in unknown conditions for us, but also shorter and trafficless. This last one allows us to stop anywhere to look the landscape. There are several towns and villages which would be interesting to see. One of them is Clemente Onelli, a town that took notoriety in the 90's because of a phone commercial directed by Carlos Sorín, the great filmmaker, author of 'Intimate stories'. There's a risk of getting stuck in the middle of nothing with our Volky, but its reliability has been tested in every moment, there's no need to distrust now. We choose the National Route 23.

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Romina and Walter had recommended us this route that starts in Dina Huapi and ends in the National Route 3, few kilometers before San Antonio Oeste. While driving we notice that it's in very good conditions and it's enough wide to go without any problem. Strictly talking, the first stage of the road is not completely dirt road, some parts are perfectly asphalted and signposted and others are still under construction but passable. Only a few short sections which let us breathe from time to time. Machinery and workers are all over the place so it's sure that it will be enabled soon.

As we go the speed is between 40 and 90 km/h at most. The geography becomes dynamic and it seems that we are the ones who are still and the landscape moves continuously. Nothing new since Einstein would tell about relativity and frame of reference, but feeling it is different from physics. Plateaus, mounts, a lot of dirt, the desert, fields with some animals by the side, emplacements and farms, all pass by, far away from everything. The sun is abundant and so the wind. A couple of times we see people stuck next to their vehicles and the hoods open. Exactly what all travelers fear to. We give our help, feeling proud of our reliable Volky, chat a little and continue the trip, knowing and trusting that in Patagonia nobody is alone.

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Although it's the final part of the trip we enjoy it and it's a pleasure as the road by itself is beautiful, besides we're going back by other road which is very different, and the right dose of adrenaline keeps in a constant level, waiting for what are we going to see just around the curve. The only city that we'll repeat is San Antonio, on the National Route 3.

While observing the landscape and the few people around, the geography changes its form from a minute to other. So we pass through places and towns, and from time to time we stop, take some pictures, stretch our legs and then continue. Appearing on our way: Los Juncos, Pilcaniyeu, Comallo and...

Pilcaniyeu. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Comallo. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

...and Clemente Onelli. We must stop here. It's not only the place in where a known commercial was shot. The director, as we said, is Carlos Sorín, the author of 'Intimate stories', 'Bombón: the dog', 'Gone fishing', among others, and who has made of Patagonia the stage of most of his movies with his simple and beautiful stories. Besides, in the commercial and some films Sabino, who was the sergeant of the village at that time and now is the 'lonko' (chief) of a mapuche community, has played some short roles.

We get into the village with the idea of finding and talking to him, but a peasant tells us that he no longer lives here, and that now he lives in his birthplace in Colán Conhué. Also he tells us that there's a new cell phone antenna and now the village is connected again, as the old phone doesn't work since many years ago... Given the present times it might be very good news, but is it really good news? Isn't all of this modernity invading places like this? This man seems excited as he is speaking, so we assume that is good for them.

It's a pity that we couldn't find Sabino, so we wish him a great and good life.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gI7WB8Ll620)

Clemente Onelli. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Cell phone antenna, Clemente Onelli. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

End of dirt road, Ingeniero Jacobacci. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

South Line. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

The dirt road finishes in Ingeniero Jacobacci, a road which shook us up. Well, not so, with the exception of some short sections it's really in very good conditions and perfectly passable. It's time for stretching our legs and refuel Volky. There are 620 km left to Viedma and the sunset is coming. There's no hurry, maybe we're a bit tired and wish to take a shower, but that's all. From here, the asphalt road is free of vehicles as well, something that is very good because of the risk of driving at high speed and traffic.

In this point is in where we intercept the railways of the Patagonian Train and find the crossbuck which titles this post.

Wheels on the asphalt, and keep on traveling. Some places like Maquinchao are crossed by this route, with an entrance and exit, so it shouldn't be something complicated. But, resignifying Charly García's words: the entrance is easy, the exit, we'll see. But we make it after asking a neighbor.

The sunset is now over us. We'll drive quiet by this wonderful route.

Maquinchao. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

This trip is nearing to an end but that doesn't mean that there won't be more surprises, the kind of surprises which are impossible to foresee.

In the darkness of the night we feel thirsty and would like some sugar instead of mate. We're thinking to stop in the next town, Sierra Colorada. Once we are there while looking for a kiosk we notice that there's a lot of people in the streets, an entertainer and a stage. It's the 2017 Shearing Provincial Championship which is celebrated in this place. So we stay in order to see and learn a little of this craft and its techniques, and the competition. People is kind, as usual, and they explain us what is this contest about. Competitors and sheeps are on the stage and then they start with their work. At the end of the series the wool is thrown into a container and the judges evaluate the quality and technique. There's a winner of the championship, who heads a speech to the audience and says that he thanks to his father for teaching him to be a shearer. People here is closely following the contest from chairs and a stand.

We feel content with this nice moment, and now it's time to begin the last stage of the trip until the point we started: Viedma.

2017 Shearing Provincial Championship, Sierra Colorada. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

Viedma. After 3240 km we finally arrive. There's a bad feeling: we want to continue the trip and travel the whole life, like Pedro Aznar's song goes. It's not possible right now, but it was worth every minute. We keep inside us the infinite moments that no camera or word can describe. This technical limitation is the strenght of photography.

Until we check the pictures we don't notice what the crossbuck says: 'Stop, look, listen'. Right now, when we had already stopped, looked and listened, and were making a review of our experience through the days and roads left behind, a sort of post-trip surprise, a bonus track that synthesizes all and gives us an essential tool for other trips, which will be many, and for any situation in life. We know very clear that coincidences don't exist, not even in the tiniest details. Of course, noticing what the sign says once we arrived is not a coincidence neither. It's a reminder for us, something that at that moment we didn't see just because it's more important to see it after, when we have already stopped, looked and listened. And learned to do it.

Stop, look, listen. When the train arrives, it will be better waiting for it by the side of the railway. And the train will arrive more than once.

National Route 23. Río Negro. 2017 © Leo Micieli

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Marisol (07/06/2017)
Placer de placeres redescubrir este lugar mágico para mí, a través de la novedad de tu mirada y las chispitas en tus ojos. Gracias. Por el tronco de Bahía Civetta; las noches del Futalaufquen; los tábanos en el Rio Minero; los ronquidos en Epuyén; las lenguas violetas de moras de Danis; las charlas en francés con William y su familia; la berreta cerveza de frambuesas; las risas con Walter, Romi y los niños; las charlas copadas con Pato; los heladitos de Jauja; el pedacito de Rio Manso color vino; el chapuzón en el Hess; las estrellas de la ruta... Paramos, miramos y escuchamos juntos, y todo se hizo nuevo. Te quiero mucho!

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Hugo (08/06/2017)
Espectaculares fotos y muy sentido relato, Invita a parar...mirar...escuchar. Felicitaciones!!!

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Julio (11/06/2017)
Bueno Leo , que bueno y apasionado tu relato , realmente has logrado transmitir perfectamente tus vivencias y ubicarnos en el terreno a quienes hemos tenido la oportunidad de leerlo y también de haber recorrido algunos parajes de los que mencionaste , seguramente el progreso traerá cambios en esos lugares , es bueno que te quede en la retina lo visto en este viaje . Pare , Mire , escuche. Un abrazo

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